Nepal

Among the chief attractions of Nepal are mountain and valley trekking, mountain climbing, Kathmandu, exotic wildlife preserves, Buddhist shrines, Hindu temples, bird-watching, beautiful scenery and river-rafting.

Nepal will appeal to open-minded, flexible travelers who want to see a truly exotic place. You don’t need to be Sir Edmund Hillary to enjoy an organized trek—it’s not like alpine mountain climbing—but the more physically fit you are, the more you will enjoy the walk. Don’t visit Nepal if you are bothered by poverty and unsanitary conditions, unexpected delays and high altitudes (some of the land in the south is almost at sea level, but much of the country is high in the mountains). Nepal’s mountainous location and climate make flight delays a distinct possibility, and although rebel activity has ceased the situation remains volatile.

The great outdoors beckons most—if not all—visitors to Nepal. Although trekking continues to be the most popular activity, the country also attracts mountain climbers, white-water rafters and cyclists.

BICYCLING

Hire a guide and head for the hills, discovering remote trails and meeting locals who rarely see foreigners. Alternatively, explore traditional Newari villages in the Kathmandu Valley on your own, an easy day of cycling from the capital. You can rent bikes in Thamel and also find local tour companies there who organize group cycling trips.

BOATING & SAILING

Several white-water rafting programs are available, most ranging from five to 14 days in length (some even include trekking).

Two of the more popular rivers are the Trisuli (can be done as a day trip from Kathmandu) and the Sun Kosi. These programs are a fun, exciting way to see another part of this scenic country. Most rafting is done October-May, when the rivers run swiftest.

HIKING & WALKING

For many, trekking through Nepal’s awe-inspiring Himalayan landscapes is the highlight—if not the sole reason—of a visit to the country. Treks can be taken throughout the mountainous areas of Nepal that are open to visitors (and these areas are slowly expanding). Although trekking permits are no longer needed for nonrestricted areas, national parks and conservation areas still charge entry fees.

Treks can be taken with an escorted, organized group or arranged independently, though independent treks should be considered only by experienced, adventurous travelers who have a few extra days to get things together. For security reasons, trekking without a guide is not recommended. Most escorted treks employ Sherpa guides as well as porters to carry everyone’s belongings, set up tents and cook meals.

The best porters are usually employed by the tour companies, but competent ones can usually be found by independents, especially during the main trekking season (October, November, March and April). If you’re trekking in March or April, you’ll see beautiful fields of rhododendrons above 6,000 ft/1,800 m, but autumn usually brings clear skies and better views.

Before hiring porters and guides, get recommendations from other independent trekkers. Tents and other gear can be rented in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Guesthouses, teahouses and lodges are also available on many routes. Standards have greatly improved on popular trails (some lodges even have showers in the rooms), but if you head off the beaten track, don’t expect luxury and be sure to carry insect repellent.

Treks are not the same as mountain climbing or wilderness hiking. Trekkers walk on paths fairly heavily traveled by Nepalese and other tourists (walking is the only way to go from one village to the next in the mountains). However far you decide to hike in a day, be sure to take time and enjoy the spectacular scenery.

Treks vary in difficulty and length (from three days to four weeks). Although you don’t have to be in superhuman shape, the walking can be very demanding, particularly at high altitudes. You’ll be hiking about five hours (7-8 mi/10-12 km) a day on average, with a lot of up-hill and down-dale at high altitude. Tour organizers usually rate the difficulty of various treks, but easy by Himalayan standards may be quite demanding for beginners.

We recommend heading out of Pokhara for first-time trekkers. The Everest base-camp trek is more work, and you do not see Everest from base camp, but you will be rewarded with superb views of the mountain along the way if you walk up nearby Kalapatar for sunrise or sunset. Those planning on taking the Everest trek, however, should allow at least three weeks, including acclimation days, to get up to base camp and to return (if you walk in from Jiri and fly out from Lukla).

Shop for tanka (religious) paintings and Tibetan articles, such as prayer wheels or tea bowls and jewelry at Bodnath. It’s officially forbidden to export precious stones, gold or silver, but customs officials may not care about small pieces of silver jewelry, especially if you are wearing them. (Items in your luggage tend to get closer scrutiny, though wearing purchased items is not 100% foolproof.)

Other goods—all to be found in the labyrinthine streets of Thamel—include bronze and copper items, shoulder bags, knives, wooden masks and statues, silk handbags, colorful sweaters and jackets, used camping gear, carpets (test to see if they are colorfast), papier-mache masks, Nepalese caps, block prints on rice paper, fossils, Nepalese flutes and violins, handmade paper, books, spices and pashmina shawls.

For Western-style clothes, cameras and other electronic equipment, head for New Road, the busy street leading up to Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. And remember, bargaining never hurts. You can get cheap custom-made shirts, skirts and so forth, but the material is usually of very poor quality and the colors will soon fade. In general, it’s wise to carry, rather than mail, packages home.

Shopping Hours: Most stores are closed on Saturday, not Sunday. In general hours are Sunday-Friday 10 am-7 pm but are longer in tourist areas during the high season.

There is a surprisingly wide variety of restaurants in Kathmandu, serving everything from bratwurst to pizza to sushi. Most are found in the Thamel district, although a few more upscale eateries are located in the shopping plaza known as Baba Mahal (which few people can afford to visit and is therefore rarely crowded) and along the Durbar Marg. Pie shops abound—most were started by cooks who formerly served in British colonial households. They used to be concentrated on a rather dirty lane called Pie Alley, but they’re now found almost anywhere.

For a true Nepali meal, order dal bhat—spiced lentils and rice—often served with curried vegetables. At higher altitude, especially in the Khumba, potatoes replace rice as the staple diet. The Tibetan momo dumpling is available in areas where many refugees have settled, notably in Bodhnath.

“Buff” on a menu indicates water-buffalo meat. Cows are sacred to Hindus, so don’t expect to find a true hamburger anywhere. A handful of restaurants, however, import beef from nearby non-Hindu countries such as Bangladesh. The Newari people (who are found in the Kathmandu Valley) also cook items that are popular with visitors. Try the Newari-style duck or wild boar.

The best restaurants are all to be found in Thamel. For breakfast, head to Helena’s. There’s a big menu and the highest rooftop terrace in town, with lovely views. Stop for a coffee or vegetarian meal when you’re shopping at Pilgrims Feed ‘n’ Read. There’s also a good choice of herbal teas and a lovely garden. Thamel House Restaurant, in a traditional Newari building, has a wide selection of local dishes and delicacies and occasionally has Nepali musicians. Kathmandu’s first food court (Thamel) serves a variety of international cuisines in clean surroundings.

Outside Kathmandu, Pokhara, jungle lodges and organized treks, there is a very limited choice of food. Try chang at your own risk: The home-brewed alcoholic beverage has been known to upset the stomach of many a trekker.

Be aware that because of sanitation standards, it’s very easy to get very sick on very appealing food. We urge you to do your experimenting after your trek, or you may not get to go.

With the return of peace in Nepal, the country is becoming a safer destination for tourists, and Kathmandu is much more relaxed. Common sense still prevails, and situations can change overnight. Always check with local guides and hotels about an area you would like to visit. Problems occur in some areas of the Terai and in rural villages where farmers once displaced by Maoist rebels are attempting to reclaim their land. Check theKathmandu Post for the latest news.

Avoid political demonstrations anywhere in the country, especially in the Kathmandu area, where they can turn violent. Be aware that strikes still happen from time to time and are likely to affect transport.

Violent crime is rare—petty street theft is more common. Women should dress conservatively, especially in rural areas, and there have been cases reported of foreign women being raped.

With due care, Thamel is safe after dark. However, everything closes at 11 pm and if you are out after that time, you may be questioned by the police and required to produce ID.

Remember to be careful crossing the street. Pedestrians do not have the right of way, and two-thirds of traffic fatalities in Nepal are pedestrians. When possible, cross the road in a crowd and try to place yourself in the middle.

For the latest information, contact your country’s travel-advisory agency.

Do dress conservatively. Women should not wear shorts (unless knee-length) or halter tops, and men should always wear shirts.

Don’t take photos inside temples without asking permission, and don’t wear anything made of leather into a Hindu temple. And do take off your shoes before entering a temple or someone’s house.

Do add -ji to the end of a name when speaking to Nepalis, especially elders.

Don’t step over other people’s feet (or any other part of their body). By the same token, don’t pat children on the head and don’t sit with your feet pointing at someone (especially toward a monk orlama, or a Buddha image or shrine)—both practices are considered insulting.

Do be aware that taking electronic goods into the country will attract attention from customs officials. If you have a laptop computer or video camera, you may be asked by officials to note the details in your passport.

Do get advice from fellow travelers in Nepal before you select a trekking or rafting company.

Don’t forget to take along a flashlight, even if you’re not planning to trek. Power outages are quite frequent in the Kathmandu Valley.

Do walk around stupas clockwise, so that the outer walls are always on your right. If you encounter a stone wall covered with Tibetan inscriptions, do the same: Walk past with the wall on your right (and don’t take any of the stones).

Don’t lose your cool. Raising your voice or shouting is seen as extremely bad manners in Nepal and will only make any problem worse.

Do get a receipt of inauthenticity when purchasing an antique replica—otherwise, you will not be allowed to take it out of the country. And don’t buy ivory or fur from endangered species—your purchases encourage the trade in such illegal goods, and you won’t be allowed to bring them back home anyway.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports and visas (available on arrival). Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 29,519,114.
Languages: Nepali, dialects.
Predominant Religions: Hindu, Buddhist.
Time Zone: 5.5 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+5.5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 977, country code for Nepal; 1,city code for Kathmandu;

The Nepalese rupee is the local currency, and it’s easy to change most major international currencies in Kathmandu and Pokhara at hotels and licenced currency exchange shops on the street.

Banking hours are Sunday-Thursday 10 am-2 pm (though some large banks have longer hours) and Friday until noon. Currency exchange shops are open every day till late in the evening. You’ll receive a foreign encashment certificate, which may be asked for when paying your hotel bill as proof it covers the amount you owe.

There are ATMs in Kathmandu and Pokhara, and major credit cards are widely accepted in high-end hotels, restaurants and shops. The Indian rupee is also widely accepted in Nepal.

Beware of touts offering to change money on the street—they’re more likely to run off, and you’ll never see them or your money again.

Most hotels and restaurants charge a 13% value-added tax and a 10% tourism service charge.

In Kathmandu and Pokhara restaurants only, tip 10% (if a service charge is not already on the bill). If you go trekking, tip porters and guides (consult with the trek organizer for the proper amount).

If you’re going to Nepal for trekking, there are only two seasons—October-November and March-April. The former is best, when the air has been washed clean by summer monsoons and the passes haven’t yet been snowed in. The weather is brisk but not too cold. In spring, the passes are open again, but the air is hazy, and the views, although good, aren’t the same as in autumn. (If spring is the only time available, it’s still worth going.)

Because it’s so far south, Kathmandu freezes only during the winter. Pokhara is warmer. The higher-altitude areas are quite cold, however. If you’re going only to Royal Chitwan Park, be aware that it can be very hot and humid anytime during its season, October-May. The monsoons, which occur June-September, affect the entire country, and flooding is a possibility in the Chitwan region.

It’s easy to make local, STD and international calls from hotels and phone shops. STD/ISD signs are prominent all over Thamel. Let them know where you want to call, go into a booth and dial. A digital reader logs the length and charges of the call. Phone shops are cheaper than hotels, which often have high charges for direct-dial calls.

Cell phone coverage is now available again after a blanket government blackout. The best reception is in Kathmandu, and it’s patchy elsewhere because of the high mountains.

The mail service is slow in Nepal, but fairly reliable. If you’ve done too much shopping and want to mail it home, save money by opting for sea mail. You’ll also find a number of companies in Kathmandu, particularly around Thamel, that offer air freight services. Keep in mind possible customs charges when your packages arrive home, though. It might be easier and more cost-effective to carry them back with you.

Tourist Offices

Nepal: Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. Tourism Industry Division, Bhrikutimandap, Nepal. Phone:  425-6232, 425-6231 or 425-6228. http://www.tourism.gov.np.

Nepal Tourism Board. Tribhuvan airport, Kathmandu. Phone 425-6909. Bhrikutimandap, Kathmandu, Phone 422 5709. http://www.welcomenepal.com.

U.S.: Royal Nepalese Embassy, 2131 Leroy Place, N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-667-4550. Fax 202-667-5534.

Nepal does not have a tourist office in Canada. Embassies of Nepal