Zimbabwe

The Victoria Falls Hotel

This hotel a short walk from the falls still operates in full colonial splendor and should be seen even by those not staying there—they simply don’t build them like this anymore. Especially recommended is high tea—a sumptuous spread of dainty sandwiches, cream cakes, tea and coffee that is served on the hotel’s terrace every afternoon. 2 Mallett Drive, Victoria Falls. Phone 13-44751. http://www.africansunhotels.com.

PARKS & GARDENS

Victoria Falls National Park

The moment you arrive in the town and hear the roar and see the “smoke that thunders” rise skyward, you’ll be lured down the main street to the entrance of the Victoria Falls National Park. There the smooth-flowing Zambezi River changes character and plunges into the Batoka Gorge in a profusion of white water.
First-time visitors to the falls are often surprised to find that it can’t all be taken in from one vantage point on land; rather, it’s seen from several viewing points along a paved, winding path on the opposite side of a narrow gorge, and there’s no sweeping perspective. But seeing it one piece at a time has its own rewards—each viewing point isolates and reveals another aspect of this spectacular place.

Victoria Falls actually consists of several falls separated by islands in the river: The most impressive are Rainbow Falls, Devil’s Cataract and Main Falls. The best time to see the falls is during July or August, midway through dry season. The volume of water over the falls is at its peak just after the rains end (March to May), but this is a poor time to go—the force of the falling water at the base sends a mist shooting up to a height of more than 500 ft/150 m, which obscures some views of the falls.

Even during the dry season, you can get plenty wet from the mist and you will need a raincoat and a covering to keep your camera and binoculars waterproof. Indeed, it’s strong enough to support a lush forest of ebony and mahogany on the opposite side of the gorge, even when the rest of the countryside is parched.) At the apex of the dry season—around the end of October—the water flow at Victoria Falls has diminished considerably, and although it’s nice, it’s just simply not as impressive as in July or August.

The main entrance to the park is on Livingstone Way just before the immigration offices at the Zimbabwe-Zambia border post. Phone 13-42294. http://www.zimparks.org.

Zambezi National Park

Covering the area on the upper Zambezi above the falls themselves, this park has a wide variety of larger mammals including the Big Five: elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard and white rhino, as well as zebra, giraffe, kudu, waterbuck and impala, and in the river, crocodile and hippo. The Zambezi is also home to a large variety of fish and is famous for its bream and fighting tiger fish. Along Zambezi River Drive there are 25 picnic sites in attractive, shady riverine vegetation where you can picnic or fish. You can also visit on vehicle game drives or a river cruise. The tour operators can organize these. The entrance is 3.7 mi/6 km from town on Zambezi River Drive, Victoria Falls. Phone 13-42294. http://www.zimparks.org.

ZOOS & WILDLIFE

Crocodile Ranch and Nature Sanctuary

This commercial crocodile farm produces crocodile leather for wallets, handbags and other luxury items, and visitors can walk around the palm lined enclosures on walkways and bridges to see the crocs and learn all about them from the informative guides. There is always a possibility of being able to hold a baby crocodile or see the eggs. Other animals there include monitor lizards, duikers and ostriches. There’s a tea room and shop. Any of the tour operators can organize a visit there. Along Parkway (2.8 mi/4.5 km from town), Victoria Falls. Phone 13-4576.

During most of the year, you can go white-water rafting on the Zambezi, and most of the rapids are world-class. There are a number of adventure-travel companies in town, and over the years a number of other adventure activities have started up around the falls. These include canoeing and kayaking on the upper Zambezi above the falls, elephant and horseback riding in the surrounding bush, and for the very active, rappeling or gorge-swinging (flying fox and rap jumping) in the Bakota Gorge.

The Victoria Falls can also be seen from a twin-engine plane that flies for about 15 minutes up and down and over the falls—if you’ve gone this far, we recommend this flight (it’s not a budget breaker, and it’s worth every penny). A longer and much more expensive flight also goes over the falls, around the countryside and over more of the river, where you may spot some game. Other aerial views of the falls can be experienced on more daring flights by helicopter. From above, travelers will see why the falls are known as “the smoke that thunders.”

BOATING & SAILING

Canoeing is a great way to get a handle on the upper Zambezi and is a tranquil way to game- and bird-watch above the falls. Inflatable two-man canoes are used, and a full-day canoe trail begins about 15 mi/25 km upstream and includes a picnic lunch on an island.

Run on the rapids below the Batoka Gorge, the Zambezi River is recognized as one of the top paddling rivers on the planet. They were first run in 1981, and now some 50,000 people go down each year. There are a number of options on the river; most popular is the full- or half-day trip, which includes transfers from accommodation, breakfast and lunch. River-boarding can be combined with white-water rafting and involves surfing the rapids on a body board. There are crocodiles in the river—not as alarming as it may sound, as they don’t live in the fast-flowing rapids themselves (where you are likely to swim) but in the quiet pools between the rapids (when you are in the raft).

Ranging from two to four hours, day and evening sundowner cruises on the Zambezi are worthwhile (be aware that some of these excursions are essentially booze cruises). The normal routine is to float around one or more of the islands and along the shore of the Zambezi National Park, and it’s possible to spot hippo, monkey, crocodile and elephant from the pontoon-style boats.

GOLF

Elephant Hills Golf Course

This 18-hole, 72-par course at the Elephant Hills Resort was designed by esteemed South African golfer Gary Player. Given that it’s located in a bush landscape, golfers may well see warthog, impala and sable on the fairways. The pro shop hires out clubs and caddies (who know the course very well). There’s also a driving range. Elephant Hills Resort, off Parkway (2.5 mi/4 km from town), Victoria Falls. Phone 13-44793. http://www.elephanthillsresort.com.

HORSEBACK RIDING

Zambezi Horse Trails

Horse trails from two to six hours for both experienced and novice riders run along the top of the Batoka Gorge. There are excellent views of the swirling Zambezi below and a good opportunity to get close to game such as zebra, giraffe and antelope—on the longer rides elephant and buffalo. Since other animals do not have an inherent fear of horses—they are indeed another four-legged species—being on top of one is a great vantage point for game-viewing. http://www.zambezihorsetrails.com.

Victoria Falls has a number of trinket shops selling everything from cheap T-shirts to antique African musical instruments. Carvings of wooden masks and animals are a long tradition around the area (as is the intense bargaining required to purchase them for a reasonable price). There are two fairly large supermarkets in town: Spar is behind Parkway, and the TM Supermarket is toward the industrial area behind the Landela Complex.

For quality eating, the hotels are the best bet, and most visitors eat at a range of hotel restaurants regardless of where they are actually staying. For cheap eats, the supermarkets have bakery counters; fast-food restaurants also are easily found throughout the city.